carrfan
When hand laying my first code 70 rail, I had some of the same problems. I've never tried anything but spiking, so I can't comment on gluing or soldering.
What I learned spiking rail:
- gauges hold rail in place until rail is spiked down.
- When I insert the spike, it is not physically touching the rail base. Very close, but not quite touching. If it touches, you will drive the rail sideways (sometimes you actually want to do that).
- On straight track, drive a pair of opposing spikes at one end of the rail piece, then go to the far end of the rail. Drive a pair of spikes there. Now go the middle of the rail piece. Using a straight edge and eye sight spike the middle of the piece of rail. Sometimes I had to pull spikes and redo at this point. Other times, I deliberately drove the rail a hair by starting the spike against the rail base. Keep spiking at half distances between spike pairs until sufficient spikes are in place (your choice).
- On curved track, I pre-curve the rail, then proceed as with straight rail. Trying to bend the rail as I spiked led directly to wavy track. I spaced the inside rail on the ties by eye, and then spiked it first.
- Snug the spike head to the rail base, but no further (no pushing down). If you have sanded your tie tops level after laying the ties, but before spiking the rail, the ties should provide enough support to prevent vertical kinking if you just snug the spikes (my experience). To me, sanding the tie tops after laying ties and ballast is a critical step.
- When I used redwood for roadbed, or used undiluted white glue to glue the ties, I found resulting hard spots "guided" the spikes in directions I did not want them to go. I found thinned white or yellow glue (or a softer glue) and Homasote roadbed was not susceptible to this problem.
My experiences, your choices
Fred W
